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Valle d'Aosta is the smallest wine region in Italy — 650 hectares, give or take — wedged between the Alps and the French border at elevations that would embarrass most other Italian appellations. Petit Rouge is the grape that defines it, and Ottin is the producer who makes the most compelling argument for why you should care.

The 2022 Torrette Superiore is a wine that rewards patience in the glass. The first sip is all dark cherry and irontinged earth — the altitude doing its work on texture and acid. Give it fifteen minutes and something opens up: dried violet, a whisper of mountain herb, the kind of finish that makes you pour another glass before you've finished thinking about the first.

Pair with: Valdostana carbonade (beef braised in red wine), cured meats, aged Fontina. This wine was made to eat.